Porn chic and classic beauty: 5 iconic Tom Ford collections
American designer Tom Ford is probably the only one who can boast a solid track record of achievements not only in the fashion industry but also in movies. Ford's keen eye does justify his status as a genius, which he was endowed with early in his career.

But this does not come as a surprise when viewing the designer's work for Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, and since 2005 for his own eponymous brand. There are distinctly cinematic moments in each of Ford's collections, which he carefully calibrates so as not to miss important details. Inspired by Ford's latest collection during New York Fashion Week, we decided to take a look back at the designer's most iconic collections.

Gucci FW'96.

Ford's early shows for Gucci are a real treat for the eyes. During his years as the brand's creative director, Ford developed a distinctive signature. In the 1996 collection, the designer focused on models and the glamorous side of fashion with tight satin dresses, fur coats and pants with the famous double-G logo. For the FW'19 season, however, Ford made references to the FW'96 show, creating several evening gowns and colorful suits in velvet.

Gucci FW'03 Men's Collection

The New York Times described the FW'03 collection as "a fuzzy version of Dirk Diggler's late-'70s style." However, there is truth in their words: the faces of the male models were adorned with mustaches, the jackets were combined with golfers, and their hair was long, like men at the turn of the 70's and 80's. Diving into the boogie era and porn-chic aesthetic, Ford made it clear that he would return to this era many more times, refracting its style through the prism of cinema.

Gucci FW'03 women's collection

The 2003 show sparked a flurry of admiration and discussion. White rose petals lining the runway, Sinéad O'Connor's romantic song "Nothing Compares 2U" and the outfits of a self-confident woman of the new decade - what could be more attractive? Sexually suggestive dresses and suits with deep cutouts in silver and scarlet hues referenced classic Hollywood style. Leather raincoats, boots and revealing skirts brought to mind the unattainable ideal of a woman.

Tom Ford SS'11

Can there be anything more Hollywood than, say, Lauren Hutton defiling at a fashion show? How about Marisa Berenson, Julianne Moore and Beyoncé? Ford invited longtime friends, admirers and famous girls from all over the world for his first show of his own brand of womenswear. All of them acted not as guests of the show, but as models. The intoxicating hedonistic show was like a remake of the old fashion show format, where models, as if playing, show off their clothes in a friendly atmosphere in a small room.

Tom Ford FW'19

So, Ford's latest fashion show. Did we notice anything cinematic here? How about the Marlene Dietrich-esque satin pants that almost every model appeared in, or suits like those of American actors Clark Gable and Gene Kelly? Faux fur fedoras that cast dramatic shadows on the face were reminiscent of noir, while loose floor-length dresses looked organic on Joan Crawford or Jean Harlow.


December 03, 2024