One of the areas that creates the most confusion for new models is modeling fees, expenses, and startup costs. There is a lot of hype and misinformation about modeling fees and what a model should and shouldn't pay when starting out. This misinformation is particularly widespread on modeling forums and other online resources. New models can feel overwhelmed to the point of giving up and never pursuing their dream. Don't let this happen to you.

When you start your journey to become a model, you'll only need two simple things: snapshots and exposure. Acquiring these elements doesn't necessarily have to be expensive, and with a bit of know-how, it can even be affordable.

Basic Snapshots
The first step in your modeling journey should be to take some basic snapshots. These photos can be extremely basic and can be taken by a friend or family member. You should wear simple clothing and very little makeup in these photos.

Get Noticed by Modeling Agents and Scouts
Once you have your photos, you need to expose them to as many modeling agents and scouts as possible. This exposure will help you get a contract with a modeling agency – the first major goal for any aspiring model. There are several strategies for approaching this stage, each with its own advantages and disadvantages.

You can print your photos and physically mail them to all the agencies, but this is the slowest and most costly way to approach this stage. You can also email your photos to all the agencies. While email is a free alternative to postage costs, it's not always as effective – an email is more likely to be intentionally or accidentally ignored than a physical package delivered to an office. Finally, you can post your photos on model scouting websites if you know agents or scouts who are actively looking for models.

Once you have photos and a strategy to get noticed, that's pretty much all you need! With enough effort and a bit of luck, these two elements will allow you to break into the modeling world.

When an Agency Wants to Sign You
While getting the attention of an agency is cause for celebration for any new model, it only marks the beginning of your career. Once an agency has expressed interest in representing you, you'll likely be given a whole new set of tasks, many of which will involve expenses. You may be told that you need to hire a photographer, makeup artist, or stylist. You might be asked to print your photos, create composite cards, publish your photos on the agency's website, and more. Some agencies may even tell you that you need to take modeling classes at schools that teach these skills.

This is the time to take a step back and find the best path for you.

Many new models have heard that "if you have to pay anything, it's a scam" or that "if an agency likes you, they'll pay for everything." However, this is not always the case, and the issue of expenses is never as black and white as we would like to believe. You shouldn't give up on yourself or an agency when the topic of fees comes up, but you should carefully consider what you are asked to do and what is best for your career.

Here are some things to keep in mind:

What is the agency's reputation? Is it known for developing new models and getting them bookings? Does it have contacts with larger agencies in bigger markets? What is their plan for marketing you?

If you need new photos, ask the agency for a list of photographers they would recommend. If they insist that you use their in-house photographer, be cautious. It may be a sign that they make more money from selling photo sessions than from booking you. An agency should not derive income from your photo sessions.

Is the agency part of a modeling school? Modeling classes can be beneficial for some models, but they should not be a condition for an agency to sign you.

Are you in a major market like New York, Los Angeles, Milan, or Paris? Or are you in a smaller, local market? Most models do not start at the top in major New York or Paris agencies. They often begin in smaller agencies where they learn the trade, develop their look, and build their portfolio. While a top New York agency might be willing to advance you certain expenses, agencies in smaller markets are less likely to have the resources to front costs for new models. However, if you have the opportunity to work with an agency in a smaller market, don't let it pass you by. These agencies can be a valuable asset to your career.

Agencies can advance expenses but never fund them
When an agency signs you, they consider you an independent contractor, not an employee of the agency. Your services as a model are contracted by the agency. In fact, you are the sole proprietor of your own business. Therefore, all incurred expenses will be your responsibility. That being said, it may happen that an agency is willing to advance some of these expenses to help you get started. Once you begin booking jobs, the agency will deduct what is owed from your account.

Even when you've started working and securing many contracts, you'll still have ongoing expenses such as new photo sessions, prints for your portfolio, mailings, agency website fees, agency commissions, travel expenses, long-distance phone charges, and more. These expenses are not unique to new models. Even established models have similar expenses from time to time. However, they should (hopefully) be small expenses relative to the income you'll earn. Also, remember that all professional expenses are tax-deductible.

Every model and agency is different
When it comes to the startup fees for modeling, it's important to keep in mind that every model and agency is different. If you were to ask 100 top models how they started, you would probably get 100 different stories. Some may have had advantages that you personally can't enjoy, but that's probably not the case for most of them. The majority of models have worked very hard to get where they are, and by following their work ethic, you can achieve success too.