Nino Eliava: "We opened an online store to put Georgia on the fashion map"

Nino Eliava, the founder of the MORE is LOVE online store, the 0711 accessories brand, and simply one of the most fashionable women in Georgia, knows young brands and their promotion better than anyone else. Nino discussed all this with Daria Shapovalova within the framework of the #LiveInstagramShow project.

MORE is LOVE is one of the first online stores in the former Soviet Union. You started when very few people in our country and neighboring countries were buying clothes online. Tell us about the beginning and how the idea came about.

It all started when I met Ani, my partner. I had just left to study in London. We were very interested in young designers; we liked the trend in general, and at some point, we both wanted to create a platform that would help young brands find their clients all over the world. When I came back to Tbilisi, we made the final decision, and everything worked out.

Why such a name - MORE is LOVE?

We wanted the word 'MORE' to be present, and we spent a long time trying to come up with something around it. In the end, Ani's daughter came up with the name. We liked it immediately – we started working on the logo and the concept around it.

The truth speaks from the mouth of an almost infant. And who were your first designers and clients?

Initially, the whole idea revolved around accessories, so the first ones were accessory brands. Then we started to develop in ready-to-wear and footwear. At first, we chose young brands from different countries, and soon we decided to create exclusive stories with designers from Georgia. When we realized that demand was much greater than supply, we started to expand as much as we could.

How many brands do you currently have on your website?

About 70. This number fluctuates as we aim not to be too large, preferring to maintain a curated selection and not deviate from our concept. Every season, Ani and I handpick the collections ourselves, which is a considerable amount of work for both of us. I would like the store to continue in the same direction.

Let's solve some mysteries. How does one get into a store like yours, and how do you appeal to someone who's been in the industry for a while?

It's actually very complicated. It is important that a brand fits the style, as every store has its own direction and it is crucial that a new brand aligns with the concept. Very often, we like the brand but not the quality - this is also a significant barrier. The two main criteria when choosing brands for our buyers are design and quality.

Young designers, listen to Nino's advice: she has helped many brands, and as a buyer, she knows what stores and customers need. Interestingly, you can have an excellent product, but it might not be suitable for that store, even if the buyers like it. You might like a brand, but you know it's not right for your audience.

Yes, and knowing that is very important. I think every designer and brand has its audience - you have to select a store so that you don't contradict yourself. To define your audience, you need to understand which brands you'd like to see your collection next to and who your competitors are. It is equally important to be represented at the right fashion week: for some, Paris is suitable, for others, Milan, and yet others sell best in New York.

But you mainly purchase in Paris now, don't you?

Yes, but in addition, brands often send us a few pieces from their collections to Georgia so we can check the quality, and based on that, we also buy online.

Online? So you don't need to physically examine all the items from the collection?

We only work on such terms with brands whose quality we are certain of. If we already know the designer well, a parcel with three pieces from the collection is sufficient for us.

Tell us more about your brand, 0711.

It was originally a teaser for the online store. We didn't plan for it to last long, so it was a huge surprise that it was so well-received. The demand itself gave birth to the brand. We couldn't just drop it. It evolved, took shape, and now 0711 is a successful, independent brand. We have about 40 stores, and we are very selective with our stockists, as long-term cooperation and proper brand positioning are very important to us – we don't work for just a season or two. We are friends with each store and consider the preferences of customers from each country. For example, our customers in one country really wanted a bag with a chain handle, and now the updated collection is on its way to them. We develop alongside our customers and their wishes.

Are all the accessories made in Tbilisi?

Everything is made exclusively in Tbilisi. We are now introducing leather bags. We have worked for a year to achieve the quality we want to present, and finally, leather bags will feature in our new collection.

Has there ever been a time when you were literally jumping for joy when a certain store placed an order with you?

I'll never forget the first store we approached. It was TSUM. Four years ago, they placed their first large order. We are still friends and collaborators to this day. Of course, many more world-scale stores have been added since, and we've been happy with each one. But the first time is unforgettable.

Tell us more about how you select clothes for your closet.

I think I'm quite conservative, although the people around me might not agree. My daily look is high-waisted jeans, loafers, a belt, and a t-shirt. It's a foolproof combination.

I always see you wearing amazing dresses in your Instagram photos. How do you choose them?

Mostly, they're from Georgian designers, including Djaba Diasamidze, who presents at couture fashion week in Paris. In his dresses, I feel completely confident; they are very feminine and accentuate only the positives. I think it's very difficult to buy an evening dress off the rack that fits perfectly. Everyone has unique aspects that need to be accentuated or downplayed. My secret: I always tailor the dress to my figure after purchasing it, having a skilled dressmaker is crucial for this.

So it's not necessary to choose a dress in the store that fits perfectly? You can just take it to the tailor?

In my opinion, it's not necessary. Fitting issues are a perennial problem for me due to my figure, but my wonderful dressmaker always adjusts the dresses perfectly.

Wow! I never considered that. I always thought that if a dress didn't fit, it wasn't meant to be.

Well, that's very rare. I have a very narrow waist and wide hips, so finding a dress with the right cut in stores is difficult. Designers sew to standard sizes, and there aren't that many 'standard' people.

Tell me, how do you choose accessories for yourself?

I think a bag should be timeless and serve not only me but also future generations. I like things with longevity.

Nevertheless, you update your wardrobe often.

Often, yes, but that said, there are pieces that I've worn every season for many years. I love items from my mom's wardrobe, especially those I remember her wearing when I was a child. I even have clothes that my mom wore while pregnant with me.

What five items would you say are essential in every woman's wardrobe?

A trench coat, loafers, a simple high-quality dress with the right cut, a classic black bag, and a standout accessory - a necklace or earrings that can brighten any outfit. I think you can wear a blazer, trousers, and loafers to work, and in the evening, just add large earrings and heels, transforming your daytime look into an evening one.

You know, in San Francisco, there's a very different attitude towards fashion. It's totally normal to resell items here. People buy a GUCCI bag and when they tire of it after a year, they just swap it for something else. What's your take on this approach?

It's interesting that you ask me now because our friend is planning to open a resale store called College with a convenient location right after the Roos Hotel in Tbilisi. Recently, she and I went through my wardrobe at my country house.

And what did you find there? Tell me!

Treasures! Some Fendi bags with logos, which are now very trendy again, denim jackets with Dior inscriptions, and leathers from Balenciaga, Alexander Wang, and Givenchy. She was shocked that I hadn't worn all that. I hope these items find new owners. Clothing shouldn't just sit in a closet - it should be worn. If someone else can give it life, I'm all for it.

Is this the first resale store in Georgia?

Yes, the first proper one.

Why are all Georgian women so stylish?

Georgians are very artistic. We have many interesting artists, performers, musicians... People have loved art passionately for centuries. This love originated long ago and has been supported by many generations. And fashion is an integral part of art.

Today we're seeing a surge of interest in Eastern European fashion. After all, there was a time when no one knew what it was or where it came from, and now people want to visit us. Why do you think that is?

It's the result of the efforts of those working in this industry, including you and me. It's a testament to those who work for their country and promote it in every way they can. For us, for instance, starting an online store was a mission to put Georgia on the fashion map, and fortunately, we had a lot of people helping us do that.

Tell us about Demna Gvasalia. Why has he been successful?

I only know his brother Guram personally, but I can say that they approached fashion with humor and everyone liked it. It's a very interesting case that can be analyzed from various angles. However, most Georgian designers work in a different direction, so this experience might not be as relevant to them.

Now for a quick quiz - don't overthink your answers. Favorite Georgian food?

That's a tough question! Elarji with baje sauce added. Also, pkhali, khachapuri, khinkali... I actually love all Georgian cuisine.

Favorite black-and-white movie?

Recently, "The Artist", and among the classics, "Lolita".

Instagram photo with a filter or no filter?

I prefer the standard filters on my iPhone - they're the best.

Favorite supermodel from the past?

Linda Evangelista, Kate Moss, Christy Turlington.

Do you have a motivational phrase that you turn to when you need inspiration?

The most important thing is never to give up, no matter how cliché it sounds. And also, learn to love yourself, because you know all the 'cockroaches' in your head and all your flaws, so it's very hard to love yourself. But it's very necessary.